Visit to Europe – Phase 3: The Intense Italian Sprint (June 16 – June 21, 2002)
Phase 3: The Intense Italian Sprint (June 16 – June 21)
- June 16: French Riviera ➡️ Ventimiglia, France ➡️ La Spezia, Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza, Italy (Cinque Terre)
- June 17: La Spezia ➡️ Pisa ➡️ Florence ➡️ Rome ➡️ Brindisi, Italy
- June 18: 🆕 Brindisi ➡️ Taranto ➡️ Messina, Italy (Sicily via Train Ferry)
- June 19: 🆕 Messina ➡️ Rome ➡️ Milan, Italy
- June 20: Venice ➡️ Genoa, Italy
- June 21: Turin ➡️ Santhià ➡️ Milan, Italy ➡️ Geneva, Switzerland
2002 June 16, Sunday
Felt a little uneasy sleeping on the train. Informally called the night train ‘Hotel Americana’. In the morning woke to the French Riviera seeing the sun risee over the Mediterranean. As approached Cannes the view was broken by several white washed multi story apartment/hotel buildings. The main stretch of Cannes looked nice but just a few blocks away the signs of decay and neglect became more apparent. Stopped for one hour in Ventimiglia. The station was better connected to the city with a fountain directly off the main entrance but this relationship is likely weak with most travelers preferring to stay within the confines of the station. As did I.
Helped some Spanish woman with luggage and directions. Boarded the train early and sat with two Italian women. Interacted briefly. I told them about my travels but the language barrier was too great, so concluded with the phrase “la dolce far niente” or “the sweet joy of doing nothing.” This is a philosophy I have embraced more and more on this trip. When mixed with persistent hunger, no certain destination, and miles of walking each day it seems the only way to live.
Passed by a few beaches and saw my first genuinely Italianate architecture in Genoa. This place appears to have retained some of its historical character but is compromised somewhat by a dabbling of modern office buildings. Around noon a haze had replaced the blue sky over the Mediterranean but still this is gorgeous, even if just for its geographical and historical reference.
men at a toll booth offering access to parking. They suggested to go back down the hill. I paused a moment and almost began my descent, but saw a large map across the road. Walked there and realized I just needed to turn a corner in the road and walk a bit further to arrive at Manarola. On the way up the hill saw a restaurant and decided to stop.
The restaurant was on top of the hill with a wonderful view of the hill, town below, and the Mediterranean. Told the waiter I wanted a grand meal. After some translation he brought me a plate of pesto. Also had a plate of fried vegetables. Ate slowly enjoying the food, people, and views. The server gave me a shot of liquor to complete my meal. As I prepared to leave he gave me some gelato and bread. I was thoroughly pleased by the place.
Began walking out in the afternoon heat. Ascended the hill only to look down on the other half of Riomaggiore. So attempted to find a path descending as little as possibly on my way to Manarola. Followed the road hoping to get to Corniglia, but was not possible so walked along the terraced vineyards. Stopped at one point for a brief rest and an excellent view of Manarola below. Descended the hill hoping to find the foot trail to Vernazza. All of the manicured trails were blocked. Somehow I managed to find a path and to begin walking towards Vernazza. The path got progressively worse forcing me to fight through brush and to ascend a series of abandoned terraces. The brush got thicker and the terrace walls higher. Wire fence provided one nasty final obstacle. With my water supply low at one point I considered turning back. My only comfort all the way up was the spectacular view. At the top despite deep doubt and fear along the way, I felt a relief at arriving at my goal.
Sat for an hour watching the sun drop below the mountains and the change of colors in the air and sea. As darkness descended, sea and air appeared to merge into one. All the while I ate what was left of my cheese from Spain and bread that I had gotten earlier in the day. By the time I was prepared to leave realized that while I was still aware of my surroundings it was a challenge to walk back to Corniglia. So I descended the hill to Manarola by flashlight one final time.
2002 June 17, Monday
Woke near 5am to the sound of church bells. Pulled myself from the dirt and proceeded to find the water. The path was in the opposite direction from where I walked to before sleeping the night before. Found a good spot and waded in, washing my hair and cleaning up in the salty Mediterranean Sea. Was nearly perfect. There was not a single other human being to interfere. After bathing walked to a fountain up the hill, did some laundry, and organized my gear. Prepared to leave the Cinque Terre. Attempted to walk back on the Via ‘dell Amore but this path was blocked too. So waited for the train to La Spezia. Impulsively jumped on the train going the opposite way only to realize that after getting on. Got off at the Corniglia station.
While there witnessed an old and young man having an intense argument as workers were clearing rubble from the interior of a c.1960 train station. Hypothesized the older man was some political leader. Reflected on how their words and arguments were so unnecessary. More generally reflected how the modern age continues to transform the Cinque Terre from an ancient center of wine production to a tourist destination. Abandoned terraces attest to a way of life in decline while the paved over and accessible walks offer what tourists want but are not true to the land.= Jumped on the train to La Spezia at 8a. Arrived at 9am and left for Pisa near 10am.
Wrote and slept on the train, arriving in Pisa around noon. Followed the tourist flow to the Leaning Tower. Found the tourist spectacle somewhat appalling. Most signs were in English as if the imperial power of today has a fascination with the failure of imperial powers of the past. Sat on the lawn staring at the tower for some time. Walked to the cathedral and witnessed a service with tourists being held near the back. Went outside and sat on the marble porch in the shade staring at the Baptistry and writing.
Went to Florence next. Felt that seeing the contrast between these two great cities would be valuable. Florence won in nearly all respects. The baptistery, cathedral and tower were stunning. When added to Palazzo Vechio and Uffizi, Florence is by far a finer city. Saw a significant amount of graffiti, especially in the university sections, that was anti-American, European Union, etc. There was also some Nazi and fascist propaganda. Left Florence and arrived in Rome close to midnight. Feeling somewhat apprehensive about staying in Rome took one of the last three trains out of Rome to Brindsi.
2002 June 18, Tuesday
Countryside was arid as it was near Barcelona. At one point we saw a beautiful white washed city on a nearby hill. Transferred from Brindsi to Taranto. Taranto had a rather impressive skyline as we approached.
2002 June 19, Wednesday
Arrived in Rome at 6:30am. The earliest hours were the finest.
Walked to St. Peters, hearing that the Pope was to give an audience. As I approached the basilica, the view was spectacular. Proceeded to purchase a ticket and climb the dome. It was a grueling march on the way up, partly because I carried all of my gear. Reached the base of the dome and was able to see the tile mosaics rather closely. Continued to the top of the dome with its outside viewing platform. Despite a haze in the sky, had a spectacular view of the Vatican and got a better sense of the orientation of Rome.
Climbed down slowly and at one point saw through a metal gate what I believe the original construction of the interior of the dome was like. There were steep stone steps broken in many places. This was opposed to the steel stair construction and walls with enameled tile along the route I had ascended and descended. I wondered how long the modernized facilities would remain.
Descended into the basilica and sat near the back, soaking in the space, before I was asked to stand again. Was intrigued by the strange poses and objects. Japanese tourists took photos of. Also struck by those who attempted to follow religious ritual amidst the tourist smarm. Walked around St. Peters then proceeded to the Vatican Museum. Saw some guards in Michelangelo’s famous costumes along the way.
Entrance and lobby of the museum were new but also somewhat disorienting. Was not very impressed by the early Christian painting collection, but was stunned and pleased with clay models of sculptures made by Bernini. The angel statue had much of the clay on its wings removed, showing the superstructure of metal sticks and straw. This reminded me of Walter Benjamin’s “Angel of History.”
Went through halls like a maze following the tourist flow to the Sistine Chapel. Was first overwhelmed by how terribly crowded the chapel was. The atmosphere was entirely wrong. Tour guides walked around with group numbers on a stick. Voices in many languages would interrupt many times telling people to be quiet and to not take any pictures or video. The guard near the altar would occasionally make a loud “shh”. By this time I was already overwhelmed by the immense wealth and pride of the Vatican. The senseless crush of tourists simply broke my will.
To make matters worse, I was hungry, tired, and had to go to the bathroom. I had managed to walk through the exit but my bag was being held at the other end of the museum. So I had to fight against the tourist flow to arrive back at the entrance.
In the modern religious art found a quite in a piece by Ben Shahn-Kovno, 1898, “Man and labyrinth”… particularly relevant:
“So many are the links upon which the true philosophy depends of which, if one be loose or weak the whole chain is in danger of being dissolved. It is to begin with the hands and eyes and to proceed on through the memory, to be continued by reason; nor is it to stop there but to come to the hands and eyes again (Robert Hook, Micrographia, 1665).
Made it to the large courtyard with one wall oriented around a large ancient pine cone. Sat there for a while… until asked to stand. Walked a short distance and to my great surprise was the entrance. After going to three different levels I secured my bag and left. Searched for the Pantheon for some time. Crossed the Piazza Navona several times. Found a neighborhood café well off the tourist route.
When I found the Pantheon, first sat on a bench, then sat on the ground, they laid down on the ground staring at the antique dome above me. My first reaction was one of awe and then one of shock at the decay, a patina of various shades of grey. Of course I was asked to stand again. West outside and sat against a column on the porch and felt a sense of wonder that I was sitting there. Next, took a circuitous route to the Coliseum.
Had a difficult time finding the train station and a long wait when I got there. Luckily the train arrived early. I found a cabin and rested. Had to transfer to another car going to Milan just before we left. Slept well on the way to Milan. Transferred rather effortlessly to Venice. I slept on and off during the two hour train ride.
2002 June 20, Thursday
Arrived in Venice around 9am. Found my way to St. Marks piazza by 11am. Found a pleasant spot to sit opposite the church and stayed there for some time.
Was corralled into St. Mark’s with the tourist throngs, many of whom were concerned about covering their legs and shoulders. A green curtain blocked the ambient light, disguising the golden ostentation of the interior. Most areas were roped off, so I entered and exited quickly with very little discovery. I was struck by the detail in the geometric marble tiles on the floor and how marvelous the gold mosaics of the narthex were when exposed to exterior light. Eventually made it to the station. It was near 7pm and my train was to leave at midnight. I impulsively jumped on a train to Paris, hoping to get off at Dijon, but the train only took me as far as Verona. At Verona I hoped to get a train to Vienna, but I missed it. Eventually got back late to Venice and tried to get a train to Geneva. Unfortunately, when I woke the next morning I was in Genoa.
2002 June 21, Friday
Took train from Genoa to Turin. Had some desire to tour the city, but was tired and hungry. Boarded a train to Aaosta, hoping to go to Chamonix. But at the last moment thought how bad tourist traffic would be, so I jumped on a train to Milan, hoping to connect in Geneva. Napped along the way and stopped just long enough in Santhia to hear the church bells ring at noon.
Arrived in Milan and almost immediately boarded again for Geneva. Train was a little dirty. I slept at first. But became wide awake as we approached the mountains. Am finding myself a thousand times more satisfied by wilderness versus urbanity. Train got more crowded as we approached Geneva. A lot of commuters I suspect. The train followed the length of a rather large lake with a lowly descending slope in the background.
Decided not to follow the travel guide and to follow my senses. Got lost in the convention/hotel area near the station. Began walking downhill and eventually found the water. The waterfront was well developed and mostly accessible to the public. Continued to follow the waterfront to the Old Town, taking a pictures along the bridge.
The Parc Anglais was particularly nice with a significant number of people sitting on benches. Strolled through some of the charming plazas and stopped to listen to various bands playing. The atmosphere was exceedingly pleasant and the district appeared relatively untouched by crass modern influenced.
Continued walking along the Danube, across what appeared to be an island. The current was rather strong, making for a spectacular sight. I am sure the river has created a good deal of concern for property owners along it.
Only the area between the Danube and train station appeared somewhat dilapidated. This was refreshing in a city that otherwise seemed perfect. A street dedicated to Rousseau ran nearby. Earlier I had seen a street named after John Calvin.
Geneva has to be one of my favorite cities so far. Aesthetically and environmentally it is quite pleasant. While probably a depressing place for the poor to live, those with a reason to life and work in Geneva, likely experience a high quality of life.
Made a gutsy move and got off the train to Zurich while stopping in Bern. Could not resist the opportunity to explore this well preserved Baroque city. Arrived at 10pm and noted that I had 90 minutes until the train to Interlaken arrived. Followed the people and lights to a pedestrian mall lined with cafes. Some buildings were lit, but not very well. Too many flags muddled the street. In an effort to preserve the facades, many garish malls run through the first floors of some blocks. I enjoyed crossing a bridge with the Rhone River below, and reflecting what a long way down it was. Walked to the cathedral and thought the painted figures on the tympanum were cute. Made it back to the station with time to spare. Now en route to Interlaken and tomorrow morning will visit Lucern and Zurich before continuing to Austria.