Here is the structured breakdown of my multi-country rail and flight itinerary. This map and breakdown chart your path across Europe, visiting 17 countries in just over 40 days.
Phase 1: Transatlantic Entry & Scotland (May 29 – June 9)
- May 29: Depart Detroit, Michigan (Transatlantic Flight)
- May 30: Arrive London, United Kingdom
- May 31: Glasgow, United Kingdom
- June 1: Glasgow, United Kingdom
- June 2: Glasgow and Firth of Forth, United Kingdom
- June 3: New Lanark and Edinburgh, United Kingdom
- June 4: Edinburgh, United Kingdom
- June 5: Dundee, United Kingdom
- June 6: St. Andrews, United Kingdom
- June 7: Callander, Stirling, and Glasgow, United Kingdom
- June 8: Glasgow, United Kingdom
- June 9: Glasgow, United Kingdom
Phase 2: Western Europe & Iberia (June 10 – June 15)
- June 10: London, England ➡️ Paris, France [1]
- June 11: Paris, France ➡️ Nantes, France
- June 12: Chartres, France ➡️ Madrid, Spain
- June 13: Lisbon, Portugal
- June 14: Madrid, Spain
- June 15: Barcelona, Spain
Phase 3: The Intense Italian Sprint (June 16 – June 21)
- June 16: French Riviera ➡️ Ventimiglia, France ➡️ La Spezia, Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza, Italy (Cinque Terre)
- June 17: La Spezia ➡️ Pisa ➡️ Florence ➡️ Rome ➡️ Brindisi, Italy
- June 18: 🆕 Brindisi ➡️ Taranto ➡️ Messina, Italy (Sicily via Train Ferry)
- June 19: 🆕 Messina ➡️ Rome ➡️ Milan, Italy
- June 20: Venice ➡️ Genoa, Italy
- June 21: Turin ➡️ Santhià ➡️ Milan, Italy ➡️ Geneva, Switzerland
Phase 4: Alps, Central & Eastern Europe (June 22 – June 28)
- June 22: Interlaken ➡️ Zurich, Switzerland ➡️ Innsbruck, Austria ➡️ Munich, Germany
- June 23: Transit through Slovakia and the Czech Republic
- June 24: 🆕 Budapest, Hungary
- June 25: 🆕 Budapest, Hungary ➡️ Dresden, Germany
- June 26: Czechowice-Dziedzice ➡️ Oświęcim (Auschwitz) ➡️ Krakow ➡️ Warsaw, Poland
- June 27: Berlin, Germany
- June 28: Berlin, Germany
Phase 5: The Nordic, Benelux & UK Return (June 29 – July 8)
- June 29:The Great European Rail Marathon Day:
- Lübeck, Germany ➡️ Rødby, Copenhagen, Denmark ➡️ Malmö, Sweden ➡️ Elsinore, Kobenhaun (Copenhagen), Denmark ➡️ Köln, Ringsted, Germany
- Amsterdam ➡️ Haarlem ➡️ The Hague, The Netherlands ➡️ Roosendaal ➡️ Antwerp ➡️ Brussels, Belgium
- June 30: Brussels, Belgium ➡️ Return to London, England
- July 1: Newcastle, England
- July 2: Newcastle, England
- July 3: Newcastle, England
- July 4: Newcastle, England
- July 5: Hadrian’s Wall, England
- July 6: Kirkhaugh, Tynedale, Cumbria, Alston, England
- July 7: Dublin, Ireland
- July 8: Transit to London Heathrow / London Gatwick, England ➡️ Return to Detroit, Michigan
📊 Countries Visited (Total: 17)
- United Kingdom (England, Scotland, and Ireland)
- France
- Spain
- Portugal
- Italy
- Switzerland
- Austria
- Germany
- Slovakia
- Czech Republic
- Hungary
- Poland
- Denmark
- Sweden
- The Netherlands
- Belgium
- Ireland
📊 Cities Visited (Total: 61)
- London, United Kingdom
- Glasgow, United Kingdom
- New Lanark, United Kingdom
- Edinburgh, United Kingdom
- Dundee, United Kingdom
- St. Andrews, United Kingdom
- Callander, United Kingdom
- Stirling, United Kingdom
- Paris, France
- Nantes, France
- Chartres, France
- Madrid, Spain
- Lisbon, Portugal
- Barcelona, Spain
- Ventimiglia, France
- La Spezia, Italy
- Riomaggiore, Italy
- Manarola, Italy
- Corniglia, Italy
- Vernazza, Italy
- Pisa, Italy
- Florence, Italy
- Rome, Italy
- Brindisi, Italy
- Taranto, Italy
- Messina, Italy (Sicily via Train Ferry)
- Milan, Italy
- Venice, Italy
- Genoa, Italy
- Turin, Italy
- Santhià, Italy
- Geneva, Switzerland
- Interlaken, Switzerland
- Zurich, Switzerland
- Innsbruck, Austria
- Munich, Germany
- Budapest, Hungary
- Dresden, Germany
- Czechowice-Dziedzice, Poland
- Oświęcim (Auschwitz), Poland
- Krakow, Poland
- Warsaw, Poland
- Berlin, Germany
- Lübeck, Germany
- Rødby, Denmark
- Copenhagen, Denmark
- Malmö, Sweden
- Köln, Germany
- Ringsted, Germany
- Amsterdam, The Netherlands
- Haarlem, The Netherlands
- The Hague, The Netherlands
- Roosendaal, The Netherlands
- Antwerp, Belgium
- Brussels, Belgium
- Newcastle, United Kingdom
- Hadrian’s Wall, United Kingdom
- Kirkhaugh, United Kingdom
- Tynedale, United Kingdom
- Alston, United Kingdom
- Dublin, Ireland
Phase 1: Transatlantic Entry & Scotland (May 29 – June 9)
- May 29: Depart Detroit, Michigan (Transatlantic Flight)
- May 30: Arrive London, United Kingdom
- May 31: Glasgow, United Kingdom
- June 1: Glasgow, United Kingdom
- June 2: Glasgow and Firth of Forth, United Kingdom
- June 3: New Lanark and Edinburgh, United Kingdom
- June 4: Edinburgh, United Kingdom
- June 5: Dundee, United Kingdom
- June 6: St. Andrews, United Kingdom
- June 7: Callander, Stirling, and Glasgow, United Kingdom
- June 8: Glasgow, United Kingdom
- June 9: Glasgow, United Kingdom
2002 May 29, Wednesday
I arrived at the McNamara Terminal of the Detroit Metropolitan Airport (DTW) around 1pm. And there as I sat at gate A38 and in my few remaining moments sitting on the ground in Detroit I reflected how it had nearly been six years since I last traveled to Europe and here as I now prepared to depart.
2002 May 30, Thursday
The advice I was given about a successful flight was to sleep the entire way there and to not eat, so as to avoid jetlag. And to reverse this on the way home – to not sleep and to eat a lot. At 9:18 GST our descent began and by 9:25 we had safely touched down. After arriving at London-Gatwick, it only took a few moments to purchase a train ticket to the Victoria Station in London and a bus ticket from there to Glasgow.
Once arriving I got lost walking around a neighborhood near Victoria Station. Gradually I became oriented though when I saw Westminster Cathedral. From here I proceeded to Buckingham Palace to do what every good tourist to London should do – to see the changing of the guards. It was predictably hard to see them over the throngs of tourists there. I spoke briefly with a mounted police officer and I petted his horse. Others proceeded to do the same without speaking with him. I took a long walk from here to Parliament.
As I continued walking and sought to find my way to the great St. Paul Cathedral, I stumbled across the small St. Martin-Within-Ludgate church, which I found was also designed by Charles Wren in 1684. This place caught my attention and seemed to call me inside. And once inside I witnessed a mass underway that I quietly sat and observed. The priest spoke during the service of the different people who passed through the church, and he seemed to cast tourists like myself in a negative light. Spoke with priest afterwards. He was kind and even offered me a cup of tea. Enjoyed this then went to St. Pauls. Continued along canal Street and saw reconstructed ruins of the 2nd century Roman Temple of Mithras surrounded by contemporary office blocks including two striking post-modern structures.
From there crossed London Bridge, enjoying the Superior view. Then rested at the Southwark Cathedral on the other side. Saw a monument to Shakespeare inside. Walked through winding streets along the river until finding the Globe Theater. Wanted to see the interior so I spent 5 pounds to see the second half of Midsummer Nights Dream. The first few moments were charming. The theater and company cast a magical spell. Though it became tedious relative to the time I was required to stand. This is when I began to realize it was not a faithful reconstruction, but included electric lights, cement floor, exit signs, etc. The audience was far more sophisticated than 400 years ago. Though did not seem to understand or appreciate subtler points and was more prone to laugh at body gags and consternated voices instead.
Crossed Millennium Bridge and returned to St. Paul’s for a service. From the opposite shore 44 cranes were visible including many around St. Paul’s. A new city appears to be rising despite an uncertain future epitomized by shaking and vibration near the base of the bridge. The 5:30 mass at St. Paul’s was magical. Sat under the dome. Reverberation of voices was divine. Though stage lights high on the wall made me doubt the authenticity of the place. Continued along The Strand stopping at Samuel Johnsons house, Law Courts, and Trafalgar Square. The Old Bank of England was converted into a pub as was the crypt of St. Martin in the Fields.
Feeling rather exhausted my walk continued past St. James Park and Palace. The tree lined boulevard was decorated with flags and electric lights, apparently in preparation for the Jubilee. Felt reassured when saw Houses of Parliament and Big Ben again. Exterior of the nearby St. Mary’s church was rather striking. Proceeded along Victoria Street to the station. Departed London by coach at 10:32pm.
2002 May 31, Friday
Woke on bus at 4:20am and completed journal entry from day before. Sun was slowly rising as ascended hills. Fields on hills divided by stone walls were covered by a sky in many shades of gray. We later gained some more elevation and the hills gave way to a less dramatically contoured landscape of fences, sheep, and villages. Now I am only a few hours away from meeting my group…
Arrived at station and walked to hotel. Found Glasgow to be dark and dreary, just a shade better than Detroit. A large Ford advertisement was on a building fronting George Square. On the advertisement was the quote from Henry Ford, “Obstacles are those frightful things you see when you take your eyes off your goal.”
Arrived at hotel and went directly to breakfast, filling up. Talked with Gary and Avis to catch up on lectures I missed. Proceeded to meet with Scottish Enterprise. Very ambitious plans. Illustrates both the problems of historical dependence to London and challenge to find a new national direction. Unfortunately, Scotland’s plan seemed lost in words and leaders showed an inability to focus and respond to challenges. Perhaps that is an appropriate ethic for a second rate surrogate urban area like Glasgow, without much beauty, charm, historical significance, or saving grace. Unfortunately Glasgow’s heyday appears to be something to be forgotten and replace with steel and glass of a new age. 1:38pm
Went with Professor Keith Hayton to see some redevelopment sites around Glasgow. The east end was most abandoned and derelict thought it had a charm of its own. An abandoned meat market and river works caught my attention along with a long length of red brick factory wall with windows broken out and one wall facing the street. In my eyes it would make a wonderful place for a restorative garden.
Proceeded to Gorbals, a restorative/regeneration project for mixed incomes that replaced some soulless hi-rises built shortly after the war. Made a connection with the professor who helped to bring it about. He suggested it was imperative to assemble land first, solicit plans based on design, not cost, and to build test units and let the market follow.
Saw Science Center after that. All the while Scottish Enterprise and I suspect the Scottish Executive are engaged in an ambitious plan to reform and reverse the decline from decades of neglect by London. It is a high order, but carries as much substance as the nationalistic Stone of Scone. Though I suspect that paper plans will disappear more quickly for lack of relevance if they are relevant now at all.
Visited Mackintosh’s Queen Anne’s Church later. As the group wandered I walked the perimeter of the church. Struck by the simplicity and elegance of the design. Was simply by sitting down in one stop for a while. Unfortunately, few people besides myself did this. Outdoors spoke with some local youth. They seemed to have little hope for their future, referring to their neighborhood as “shit” while constantly spitting. Walked to the bus and introduced them to the professor who helped to build the science center. Encouraged the youth to go there. Professor presented a bleak picture of economic decline and failing schools. Through his unwillingness to speak to the youth there was a clear generational and class gap.
Once returned to hotel as others went to restaurants while I sat on the stoop and watched the sun set. Watched people walk in and out and wrote a poem. A yellow balloon rolled through the intersection. Talked to a man named Colin as he waited for a cab. He claimed football and secularism are bringing the country down in addition to limited political and economic power.
2002 June 1, Saturday
Woke near eleven, had breakfast, then struck out on my own. Met two Slovakian students on the Glasgow Green. Walked to the Peoples Palace with them then continued on my own. Crossed to the south side of the river and through part of the East End that we visited yesterday. This time to Buchanan Street, an active and popular pedestrian mall. Apparently it is a retail and social center. Sat at the top of the steps of The Glasgow Royal Concert Hall, that cascaded to the street and provided a fine view down the hill. Surrounded mainly by locals watching shoppers and tourists pass below. The premise of the setting, however, seems under attack. While industrialism has given many some wealth to spend on clothes and media that they carry in colorful plastic bags, this wealth seems to be disappearing and this consumer culture seems to cost a little more. From the steps a perceptible difference can be seen between the tourist throngs and those struggling to survive. Buchanan pedestrian mall curved and changed into Sauchiehall. After a few blocks turned into an auto road. Perceptible difference in appearance of properties and vacancies.
Visited Glasgow School of Art but was unable to enter. Crossed expressway and saw garden built over it. If we acted to accommodate or counteract negative effects of the expressways/auto in the US it would be prohibitively expensive. Just past the expressway, Saushiehall shifts from retail to rowhouses. They go on for blocks with a boulevard. The iron fence has been removed and all that remains are small stumps of metal protruding from the stone and concrete wall. Took a side street down towards a neoclassical building. A walk through the landscaped park nearby. Heard music in the distance so started walking towards it. Became distracted by a lawn bowling game. Sat in a bench and observed just as they began another round. Design of fence caught my attention, some looked like pikes in a row and the other appeared to have sharp points removed and soldered on joiner between the bars. Walked to art museum to find it closed, but with two people inside, one a man playing an organ. Sat on the lawn facing the transport museum. Felt connected to the place.
Later followed sound to the parade that I had heard earlier. It was a Protestant group doing seasonal marches that have occurred since 1690 after defeat at the Battle of the Boyne. The atheist police officer who watched the event had a low estimation of the group, claiming they were brain washed or had low intelligence.
Continued to University of Glasgow where restoration of a building called Maggie’s Place was underway. A consortium of groups cooperated on the project including leaders of the Evening Times who contributed 500 million pounds. Wandered through the university to Gilmore Hill, a former church converted to a theater in 1997. he acoustics were good. Epitomized change in Scotland to me. On the same street there was a second theater that was abandoned. Met an artist who works with found objects. She claimed there was very little money in Glasgow, and artists practicing independently are attempting to resist commercial art scene in London.
Had a wonderful wrapped sandwich called chicken tikka. Crossed the street and began talking with a young man guarding an entrance to the student union and checking id’s. A steady flow of students passed by and went to the club inside. Our conversation ranged broadly talking about politics, soccer, America, business, and the poor. He was reluctant to acknowledge realities shaping Glasgow and Scotland, but was quick to criticize America.
Listened to a band called Josephine. They performed eclectic rock music. The only woman in the group wore mens clothing with shirt and tie. On screens behind them were projected pictures of monuments from Europe. A few people danced on the floor, but otherwise there was a lot of smoke and noise. Once the band was done I took a cab back to the hotel.
2002 June 2, Sunday
Woke early in the morning, had breakfast and wrote, before getting a quick shower and preparing to leave for a bus tour of the metro region. I made an effort to get away from the group. Did this at the Firth and Ross Priory. The moment we returned to Glasgow and got off the bus I started walking, this time covering the north-east end of town. Began with Strathclyde University and continued to Glasgow Cathedral. Caught an evening service at the cathedral and spoke with two of its leaders afterwards. One claimed that great empires fail because they lose faith. When I asked whether this was the problem Glasgow faced, but he suggested the problem is too much wealth and constant pursuit of pleasure.
2002 June 3, Monday
Had to leave in a hurry. Slept on bus. Arrived at New Lanark, had a tour. Broke from the group and began talking to people on my own. Walked on path by falls to a summit overlooking the city. Had a picnic then descended hill to city. Napped on the bus to Edinburgh and arrived at the hotel. After checking in made a brief walk through the city stopping at St. Mary’s Episcopal. More understated and elegant than Glasgow Cathedral. Rushed back to hotel to meet group for a bus tour. Went to crag overlooking city. When they deposited us off in the Old Town, ran off on my own. Ascended Calton Hill. Viewed a democracy cairn, commemorating an act that created Scottish Parliament. Construction of Parliament was in the distance.
Sat with an older man and woman looking at site and began to talk. Our conversation ran far and wide from Burns and Bannockburn to idea of tension with the East. Spoke about Scottish poverty and its ability to inspire deep thinking and innovation. Descended and sat watching the sun set over the firth. Continued descending hill and walked along the Royal Mile. Castle was closed so went to Princes Street. Had Indian Curry Chicken at a Chinese restaurant. Later walked through gardens, formerly a moat [and railroad bed]. Walked to war monument of stone slabs in a semi circle joined by wrought iron at far end of garden. Observed inscriptions as began to lose light. Muffled music was in the background from the Jubilee concert. Heard a bang from time to time and lights cast an eerie glow.
Slowly walked to stage in center of park with hill in background to see lighting of beacon to commemorate 50th year of Queens reign. After a slightly too long speech by the Lord Provost, the beacon was lit. Shortly after people began to depart. Sat in the park observing the beacon a short time longer before being asked to leave by a guard because the park was closing. Wandered the streets a few hours longer not wanting to return to the hotel but eventually did.
2002 June 4, Tuesday
Woke at 6am. Did not want to sleep so pulled my stuff together and left a hotel. Boarded a bus going from one end of the city to another. Returned to hotel for breakfast. Visited a preservation group in the morning and then went to a Scottish Inclusion Partnership meeting on east side of town by the water.
After lunch and a talk went to see a redevelopment site. Found it rather depressing. Plan seemed to blanket housing on hazardous land. Taken during the early stages of the area’s massive multi-phase redevelopment, it documents the transition between the demolition of old industrial complexes and the creation of modern green spaces. These guided walkthroughs were commonly conducted in the late 1990s and early 2000s for local housing associations, architects, and community council members to review masterplan boundaries. The group is standing on a cleared, grass-overgrown industrial plot that was being evaluated for conversion into public space or residential use. In the background, low-rise brick factories, traditional corrugated boundary walls, and a tall industrial brick chimney stack remain visible, highlighting the heavy industrial footprint that defined this section of Glasgow’s south side.
When returned to city went back to Episcopal Church. Was not impressed by the choir so jumped on a bus and went to the south side of town. Climbed Arthur’s seat by way of adjacent hills. Had a wonderful view of the city while enjoying physical exertion and time to myself. Summited Arthur’s Seat then went to a nearby hill, ate an orange, found a place to lay down and took a brief nap. From the time I slept and woke there was a perfect view of the crags beyond my feet, the setting sun, and the city beyond. Ascended the seat a final time and descended along its steep stone face. Included pass through a narrow gorge that got wider near the bottom of its thirty foot length. Continued along the steep face including sections with loose stones and nasty poking plants. Was a small miracle that I made it to the bottom. Cut a long path across the opposite hill to the top of the crags. Sat at a spot overlooking parliament. Walked past Hollyrood Palace and then along the Royal Mile. Passed through the train station and along Princes Street a final time before catching a coach and returning to the hotel.
2002 June 5, Wednesday
Left Edinburgh for Dundee. Stopped at a village at the base of a bridge that crossed the firth.
While the others went to the restaurant I went to the water and was approached by a distraught black dog. I shared bit of food with it but in continued to pace the rocky shore, walking out into the water and barking at the opposite shore. The pain this animal was feeling upset me so much that I spoke with nearby business owners and attempted to get assistance. By the time we left I was still unsuccessful. But while sitting and watching I reflected how the dog was an analogy to Scotland’s poor. They are pushed to the edge, stand barking, but most are afraid to approach and help.
We continued on for a lecture at the University of Dundee by a particularly passionate and well-informed city planner. Crystallized ideas of decline very well, as well as providing an honest assessment of hopes for the future. Later a preservationist from the university took us around the city, showing a project of his. Involved conversion of a complex of historic buildings into a youth hostel. Afterwards took a brief walk to a reception, talked a little, and returned to the hotel. Felt sick and tired so slept a little and tried to get food when I woke but everything was closed. So paused and stared into the dark stretch of nature near the hotel, then returned to the room, took a long shower and slept.
2002 June 6, Thursday
Woke and had breakfast. Then waited outside in the early morning sun as the group prepared to leave. At first sat nestled into a broken section of a stone wall. Watched bunnies hopping in the nearby grass.
Saw some regeneration sites. Nearly all of them included somewhat salvageable buildings being destroyed and turned into something else.
Stopped near the Tay Bridge for lunch. Sat on stone retaining wall and caught up in journal. Had premonition I missed the group so left early. On the way had a wonderful bowl of soup. With an hour to spare went to the tourists office to find out more about Newcastle. Then returned to a place near the bus and rested on the sidewalk until we left.
Continued to St. Andrews. Were given a bus tour around the city, looking especially close at new development, including several golf courses in the past 15 years. Had tea in the back room of the club house on the old course. Later walked through the city alone.
Stopped in a fishing village for dinner. The harbor beach was littered with various plastic and paper debris. My feeling was that the modern era has destroyed this place. The only similarity between past and present is that the people are just as poor except with the trappings of a modern world.
2002 June 7, Friday
Ate breakfast alone and boarded bus. Drove through the Highlands via tour bus. At one point the endless stone wall was replaced with a steel guard rail in cement footings. Stopped briefly in a place called Callander. Had some wonderful bakeries and the prices were extremely low, but there was only a limited supply of fruits and vegetables.
Then we arrived at Stirling. I had lunch on a grassy section of the castle wall overlooking the city. Wandered around the castle. The Royal apartments were an early example of Renaissance architecture mixed with medieval elements. While sitting on another grassy section of the wall near the car park, a piece of paper flew from my journal and over the wall. Later found it in the cemetery below. Walked through the Old Town, and passed briefly through the Church of the Holy Rude. Dating from the 15th century it was a lovely Romanesque/Gothic style. Some stained glass windows had the representational power and form brightly colored and carefully shaped glass.
Ascended the hill and prepared to leave. Alternated between sleeping and viewing the sites on the way back. Stopped in one post war new town. Despite innovative architecture, its location on top of a hill and poor circulation system make it a particularly uninviting place. Its town center reflects this with perhaps the most dystopian vision that I have yet seen. Returned to Glasgow and went to sleep near 11pm.
2002 June 8, Saturday
Woke at 4am and nearly decided to wake but slept until 8am. Continued work on my research notes while having breakfast. Later went to the summit of Buchanan Street and completed research notes. Walked to George Square spending a few hours sitting on a bench and observing what was around me. At one end of the Square a temporary stage for the Queen’s Jubilee Baton Relay was set up with prominent advertisement by Cadbury’s. On the other end children played on the substantial war monument.
2002 June 9, Sunday
Woke at 3:30am and went downstairs to see the group off. Spoke with Robin briefly and agreed to return to work at the end of July. Shared some parting words with Mary and waved as the bus pulled away. Returned to hotel room, slept a little, and slowly packed and prepared to leave. Had a final breakfast at the hotel. Since my feet had some tender spots, went to the bus station early. Walked from Buchanan Street to George Square. The square was bathed in bright sun. Passed the hotel and stopped at the cathedral. Reflected how simple its exterior was but also how grand the monuments inside were. Returned to the bus station and waited for the evening bus to London to arrive.