Downtown and the Faubourgs – New Orleans, Louisiana
My first visit to New Orleans was in January 2006. As a FEMA contractor I was stationed there a few days because there was no place to stay in Baton Rouge where headquarters was. After returning home I recounted the visit in a series of weekly letters that were published in the Downriver Review.
Later in 2012 I wrote a piece on my earlier visit supportive of the Preservation Resource Center.
Much has changed in the years that followed. My two sons are teenagers today. I’ve lived in New Jersey since 2016 and am now working on revitalization of the fourth city of my career – this time in Princeton. Imagine the great pleasure to be able to bring my oldest son to New Orleans in 2024.
Early upon arrival we had a chance to stroll through the French Quarter at night. I enjoyed the Old Ursuline Convent
One morning we helped to open Cafe du Monde. This is unique because they once were open 24 hours. No longer.
The real purpose of our visit to New Orleans was for Ed to go to the National World War II Museum. It did not disappoint. Over two days we spent time seeing every room and exhibit. Left with many takeaways but the most profound were how ordinary people came together and did extraordinary things.
Dropped in a few galleries on Julia St. They are open late on the first Saturday of each month.
Morning at Cafe Beignet not as good as Cafe Du Monde.
Saw exhibits on Hurricane Katrina and Mardi Gras at The Presbytere.
St. Louis Cathedral was a must visit. Attended mass there on Sunday morning. Afterwards the Archbishop was very kind and spent some time greeting us.
After mass last Sunday we had Mufaletta from Central Grocery while sitting on the Moon Walk along the Mississippi River.
The Creole Queen took us to Chalmette that was an hours ride away. Along the journey a narrator spoke about the history of New Orleans interspersing commentary on various sites we passed. We admired the NOLA skyline, saw transport ships at dock, passed the Domino sugar plant that produces billions of pounds of sugar a year, and finally Chalmette. After deboarding we walked along the levee before making our way to the National Battlefield.
Upon arrival at the Chalmette Battlefield we observed where a disparate band of a few thousand Americans led by Andrew Jackson took on a superior British force leading to a decisive victory and thousands of enemy casualties. This would later thrust Jackson into the national spotlight.
The Beauregard House built a few years after the famous battle once served as a Visitor Center. Today it is vacant and suffering from the ravages of time, weather, and termites.
During the return trip to dock we were given a very detailed description of Hurricane Katrina in 2005 and it’s aftermath. There were many villains and a few heroes in the story of inadequate responses. Particularly devastating was to observe the damage near the Industrial Channel and Lower 9th Ward where the greatest breach of the levee occurred. Damage was still evident in this area. They tried to give an upbeat assessment of recovery referring to victories of the college and NFL football teams. Based on all we observed during our visit the legacy of the hurricane nearly two decades later is far more complex.
Back on land we walked through the French Quarter again this time getting as far as Congo Square. A drum circle livened the space that was otherwise empty and in disrepair. The Louis Armstrong statue and a bust were impressive monuments. The manmade lagoon was serene though somewhat out of place.
Preservation Hall was closed owing to a restoration. When originally opened they maintained the shabby sense of disrepair to the chagrin of many actual preservationists. In a way it seems truer to New Orleans then as it does now. Hopefully the “scrapers” will not prevail over the “anti-scrapers.” The complex history of the American Revolution and it’s aftermath are on display over a few short blocks where the top financier of the Revolution lives (his house has been torn down) and the slave market was located. A focus of entrepreneurship later down the street shows the continually unfolding story of the search for opportunity.
Another morning started with warehouses and art.
New Orleans Coffee and Beignet Company was a close second to Cafe Du Monde. One thing we missed out on were the bags they were served in were meant to be shaken to coat the beignet with sugar. The shape and crispy outside were right and sugar to dough ratio were spot on. Best part is there was only one person in line and we had a beautiful courtyard to ourselves.
The Renaissance Hotel had some art inside that caught my eye. Outside a delivery gone awry creates some abstract shapes on the pavement. Ed did not agree with me that this rose to the level of great art.
Piazza d’Italia was fenced in and bereft of any activity. Ed and I had ample time to reflect on what this monument meant. We talked about post-modernism, suburbanism, and many other things. He was resistant at first to travel up the steps and tiers though later embraced the challenge. A restoration several years back brought it little coherence. The ten foot metal fence contains a period of architecture that probably ought not be released to roam freely beyond its confines.
A random Art Deco entry lobby with black and gold terrazzo has held up surprisingly well. Albeit it would be better with the doors and lobby that once fronted the street.
We bought a second day pass to the National World War II Museum for a few dollars more. This allowed us to do a deeper dive. We missed the Manhattan Project section the first time. The Lend Lease gallery was before it. Also in the Pacific galleries the leaflet prior to dropping of the atomic bomb was chilling. With that our visit to the museum and the story of the war were nearly complete. We lingered a little longer visiting the museum shops but did not buy anything. Our final gallery had a PT boat and other exhibits in one room on ground level to explore STEM concepts.
Dropped in with friends at the Preservation Resource Center of New Orleans. Pleased to see the conference room named after four decade Executive Director Patricia Gay. Had a very eventful time lobbying Congress with her years ago. Spent nearly two hours exploring, bought a few books, and talked about preservation.
Camelback example with an elevated second floor to the rear. Surprised that the PRC did not highlight this variation in their display.
Creole Cottage model at the Preservation Resource Center and an example from one of your many walks. Particularly appreciated how the models were touchable for those whom.might be visually impaired. The model helps to get a sense of the features and how they relate in a way that two-dimensional drawings do not allow.
Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop Bar makes for a nice story but is probably not associated with the pirate. It is an example of the technique describes in French as briqueté entre poteaux.
Our final leg of our NOLA visit was a quick streetcar ride and walk through the Garden District. Ed instituted a five second rule for each photo I took. If I exceeded five seconds he would shove or poke me. That kept things moving. Saw the Albert Kahn designed Packard Showroom. Ended our journey at The Fresh Market. Our Uber driver to the airport kept a lively conversation going the entire trip. Helped to lessen the blow of leaving a city I enjoyed visiting so much.